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Step 18 - Hospital Órbigo - Astorga

It was a very short but it was not easy because I had to say goodbye to Apollonius and the rest the group, badly, in my humble opinion, influenced by it, decided to continue walking a mile without obsession to look at horizon. So I decided to stay alone in Astorga while they continued. I just went to the road and just never left me but I had to say goodbye to them.

So, I ate with them and spent an afternoon watching Astorga, which is nice since you see before entering. Gaudi Palace is very nice, in fact, one last visit inside, that is the museum of Roads. The windows are beautiful, especially its structure, is impressive.

The cathedral, like all I've seen so far, much emphasized by its large size to a lower city. In particular it surprised by the naturalness of his show, with three-dimensional figures that came out of the altar, very impressive.

Later I visited the Roman Museum, with lots of amazingly well-preserved gravestones, and a lot of small pieces very impressive to have two thousand years of life.

And finally, the chocolate museum. Astorga turns out that established the first commercial chocolate factories and a museum with loads of parts manufacturing, machinery, advertisements and other things. Very funny and interesting.

In none of these discount sites made me a pilgrim, but still it was worth paying the entrance, because as I go around the whole of Spain from side to side, do less to visit cultural sites.

hostel I stayed at the San Javier, as I soon came to town and I caught site that was the best and most central. One last shelter, all new and clean, and the best was a makeshift couch with blankets on the floor at the edge of the fireplace, warm stayed there all night while it was raining outside on the streets of Aston.

only went out for dinner in the restaurant Gaudi, such luxury overflowed me completely after long flights site. The hostel had an agreement with the restaurant and after seeing the stamp in my card I got a menu for 10 €. A delicious garlic mushrooms first and a steak with potatoes and peppers second, all washed down with a delicious bottle of red wine from El Bierzo. Overwhelming ...

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Step 17 - Lion - Hospital Órbigo

Leon

I left late, as the Lion hostel had no time of departure in the morning. At the end of Leon is the hospital of pilgrims from San Marcos, which is nice if only the front left and since it is now a hostel. And after that begins a succession of great neighborhoods on the outskirts of León, sites that say nothing to Walker and no choice but to go through.

ate at Villar de Mazarife, because I chose the route, although longer, ran through pretty villages and avoided the road. I do not do a few more miles in order not to seem a nuisance by the road passable.

Mazarife In Villar seems to be a war between the houses, with signs exactly the same with different names, including facing each other. I ate a menu in one of the shelters, Casa Pepe, good and plenty for nine euros.

On the road between Villar de Mazarife with Villamanta find the best berries I've eaten the whole way. And when I was eating a few I was surprised a flock "not very big," said the shepherd, about 440 sheep. He said if preferred instead of grape berries could teach me a place to pick wild grapes that did not damage any crops. I grabbed a few bunches, washed them in the source of Villamanta and ate at a bank, a refugee, as he saw it rained or not.

Turning now Órbigo Bridge into conversation with a boring man in his seventies or eighties who was on his farm, eager to talk. He said he did not understand how we could do as many miles for a pilgrimage to Santiago, and that he would not for a million euros. I told him that many people did it by faith, and he said that Santiago was the same as praying a prayer. I told him that James met every pilgrim to Santiago was what he should ask, and he responded very resounding no, that was not possible, he even explain exactly how that was impossible and how the journey had no meaning from that point of view. If that was a test of faith did not help, because I went and I still think that James will make me realize my dream, I still believe in him ... I said goodbye to the man and told me I had a good trip, which was reached step by step away, or what he said Benede, several small gains add up to a great victory.

I arrived very late to

Órbigo Hospital of San Miguel made the hostel was full and had to stay in the parish, which was "too severe", but at that time applied the thank Pilgrim rule and not exact and I stayed. The next day my body was full of bites of that place, it is clear that complaining is easy when you're organizing something, but after that ... I think it is a shelter to avoid.

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Step 16 - Reliegos - Leon

A stage that was supposed to be short, but eventually became a medium. From Reliegos to Leon are nearly 25 miles, but it was well worth it.

Mansilla de las Mulas is quite nice, although the hostel is worse than Reliegos, I think I should have spent the night there to visit the city I saw the wall and the sanctuary of the Virgen del Camino, and after breakfast there, followed the road to Apollonius, Steve, Evelyn and Austrian girls who never got to know their names, they did not speak a word of English and English a rare .

All nations before arriving in Leon are, in other cities earlier miniature bedroom communities in which they are not only services, so we quick to arrive at noon the shelter of Leon, which was the only city that was open, because the nuns were trying to exterminate an infestation of bedbugs. In fact we saw some partner with a lot of bites from these bugs, luck had I not end up like them.

The Lion hostel was very nice, modern and no closing time, to visit the city without strain. The first thing I did was go to see the Cathedral, is a pretty pass, huge, and the square around it is great to view on all sides without problems. Inside, much more impressive, is not in as good condition as that of Burgos, but it is amazing. The windows are without doubt the best you have, but the day was not suitable for lighting, because it was cloudy, it was very nice. I missed two things: the first was someone explain me what I was seeing or say any way to get a guide, the cathedral looked like a square, there was no one responsible, even people took pictures with flash. The second thing I missed was something other than windows, removing the roof, the cathedral is poor. That's why I liked most of Burgos, but it is true that this is one of the most beautiful cathedrals I've ever seen.

After spending about an hour walking around the cathedral, I went to see the Plaza de Santo Domingo and the Plaza de San Isidoro with its corresponding church. Very nice, especially curious how low is the roof in the confessionals. It was the last day of celebrations of Leon, so there was a medieval market cross many busy streets. It was very nice, and very realistic, with a strong man throwing bread to the oven, with burros carrying children and a Ferris wheel turned with the force of the pedals of a poor man. I ate a chocolate lattice was delicious.

were also due to the holidays I found the Gaudí building open to the public by exposing the history of music from Leon. The show was not important, what was the most beautiful building, especially on the outside, too than the building of Gaudi in Barcelona.

And finally, I visited the palace, with a beautiful floral display inside. The truth is that Leo is a very nice and very welcoming for the pilgrim, the truth is expected to be larger and impersonal, yet not cost us anything to find the streets to Steve, Evelyn and me to dinner with Luis, the boy met the Galician day spent by Burgos. We left the neighborhood four wet and we had some tapas, all very cheap compared to Madrid.

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Stage 15 - Sahagun - Reliegos

Hostel Another good thing is that there is viatoris departure time ago. So I decided to give me a "freak" and sleep until eight o'clock that morning. This meant that I did not see Apollonius and curious group (formed by a Norwegian guy, Steve, two Austrian girls and Apollonius) to the hostel, but it was worth giving a couple of laps on the bed.

At the end of Sahagún was raining a constant drizzle that did not stop until you reach Bercianos, a town nothing in which I made a stop at the bar. There I met Evelyn, who had come to Sahagun the day before, had been in Terradillos of the Templars and would only come at this stage in El Burgo Ranero. Still I decided to meet her at the shelter municipal de León, a day later.

The stage was boring, dull, nothing more than a halt and looking forward to Leon as the only incentive to go one step after another. I arrived in El Burgo Ranero on over and pick and eat a menu of 8 € in the restaurant Piedras Blancas. Roasted rabbit salad and delicious Leon with a red wine chilled. Gave me strength to spare to go to Reliegos, which ended in the only hostel in town.

The days passed slowly in how fast you went the whole way before you get to Leon, I remember very well the desire I had to see the Cathedral and spend all these bands so plain that bored a lot. El Bierzo and Galicia there were no longer far away ...

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Stage 14 - Carrión de los Condes - Sahagun

By far, the stage duller and more boring the whole way. After passing at full throttle, to make it less heavy, 18 kilometers of desert Palencia, came to a dull town, simple and seemed abandoned to return to make another stupidity of miles to another town alike. In fact the desire to leave Palencia make you walk the miles as ever, so get to Sahagun, the first city of León.

Sahagun is not no wonder, in fact the church of San Tirso is most beautiful, is not no big deal. What happens is that in comparison ... worth it.

the hostel viatoris newly creation, it was our destiny. It is a hostel which was initially going to be a house of culture, or something, and that his conditioning was creative artist with a beautiful rose in his reception overlooking the street and very nice. Finally decided to make a shelter, and really it is divided into a huge block with lots of bunk beds and one beach bar where the reception. Internet is free, and they let me use a card reader to take some pictures from my camera and I can send my friends. Everyone was especially nice to me, especially Eva, the hospitable, besides being a very attractive girl is very friendly and served us well at all times.

Basically, in addition to shelter, the only thing worth pointing out one day so we ate in the shelter of the Templars Terradillos lentils and meatballs for 7 €, wine, menus here always come with wine that the house wine is good wine.

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Stage 13 - Itero de la Vega - Carrión de los Condes

This was the first day that I woke Beneden, in that I will not miss ... lol. As the first day I woke up the work of the pilgrims and left the hostel about eight o'clock.

I came to Boadilla del Camino and saw their church, quite pretty as the people, the truth is that I regretted not having done night there, but good. On the way Frómista accompanied me to a group of four Koreans, three girls and a boy up to the locks of the Canal de Castilla. Canal de Castilla is very nice, and locks as well. Impressive to see that all that amount of artificial river water and that is put there by human hands.

Frómista me liked it a lot, is a very livable place, a very nice and very pleasant. I could have stayed there, but they were eleven in the morning and chose to visit landmarks and points my way. The church of San Martín and San Pedro, the church of the Castle and its main avenue, and kept track of Carrión de los Condes, that was my goal that day.

Frómista

From the road becomes the service road of the P-980. A passable that seems endless parallels the road and the landscape becomes more boring than ever in these two weeks.

Still

no choice but to follow and go through boring people who seem left to reach one of the great wonders of the road: the church of Santa María la Blanca de Villalcázar towpaths. Work of the Templars, is a real beauty that emerges in the middle of nowhere English. It is more a cathedral than a church, its majestic columns and say it all really worth it worth paying a measly fifty cents per visit.

After this joy came to Carrión de los Condes, the city is very beautiful and has much to contribute culturally to the pilgrim. I stayed at the hostel parish, since the nuns was full, but then I went to make a visit to the church of Santa Maria del Camino, where I could see the poor nuns, dams, praying Hail Mary over and over again without stopping a repetitive basis. The church attached to the convent is specially designed to give communion to the nuns, it was quite beautiful with their tiles and Christs so realistic, that impact greatly.

Then I also saw the museum, and the wealth of the church, then buy some sweets from the nuns that I came in handy for the desert 18 miles waiting for me in the day's stage later.

finally dined in the brasserie menu JM, rich all by 8.5 €, salad and fried eggs with potatoes and ham.

On my return to the hostel I met the crazy Apollonius, who was night here after making a pact with a Norwegian and two Austrian arrive on the same day to Santiago. It seems that sanity finally arrived.

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Stage 12 - Road Plates - Itero de la Vega

Hostel I went fairly early, but Benede and Yolanda were gone. It has been a solo career, a long time not walking alone. Canaries kids took their own way; Benede run today to get as far as possible to catch a bus to take you to Barcelona where he will spend the rest of your vacation. And Apollonius has managed to extend their vacation time just as with the desire to make kilometers had been recently able to reach Santiago. The truth is that I will miss you very much, especially Benede and his people skills, how the pilgrims shouted, how I say "pigeon" or "Muyayo" or how she expressed her "He died What Do You Say !. " But the road is the way, and teaches you to appreciate what you have when you go and enjoy the moments when you live, and not when you lose. Surely someday the way of life we \u200b\u200bare back together.

After the walk yesterday, and Hontanas was a stone's throw. I arrived at a time and I found there to Evelyn, a very nice Irish girl he had seen at some earlier stage, and accompanied me Castrojeriz way.

forests and shaded walk was over, the endless steppe English took possession of the road. Before coming to Castrojeriz very surprised to find the remains of the convent of San Antón, goes through the local road and the road, and even more surprising is that these remains can be a shelter pilgrims. The truth is that it is a last stop to think that this place would heal the sick for almost a thousand years. Always on the road is strange to use the phrase "in this place ...".

Castrojeriz is a beautiful town, but its beauty may lie in who is more or less halfway between being an ancient people and an attempt to town. We took a euro to see the collegiate church of Nuestra Señora del Manzano, turned into a fine museum that also allows you to see James and the virgin and that, although not enough, does not interfere with being able to see the structure and beauty of the building.

Worse was the euro that we claimed to see the church of San Juan, which was under construction, a mess and could hardly see anything, but hey, you can not always get it right.

was then when I went up the Alto de Mostelares, so you can see from above what I expected, a craze ahead of the plows and concourses until I get to Leon and El Bierzo. I have the good fortune to be a profound admirer of Castilla and your horizons, but acknowledge it could be like to go crazy for anyone who needs a shadow. In fact is that after the upper and lower until you can see far Fitero bridge were amazing situations in which not only saw brown field and horizon in the background on all four sides, it said, to go crazy.

In fact I do not know if the folly of crossing these fields or a bad sign, I ended up with my feet in Itero Castle Bridge rather than Fitero, so I took to see their great church with its beautiful bell tower, to retrace my steps to the bridge and the chapel of St. Nicholas, which is very nice, but what stands out is the source of water manual behind, he had never seen in my working life a is a last but not drinking ...

So I

Itero de la Vega to where I finished the stage, got into the hostel Itero, I paid five dollars so as not to look for more and ate a salad I bought at a store in town.

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