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Step 30 - Rio de Janeiro - Negreira

That morning we all got together to see the Pilgrim Mass at the cathedral. Personally, I do not believe in the church, but it has nothing to do. Even for a non-believer or an atheist, is an exciting time. It's more a celebration than ever.

Last night, after all the euphoria, we were in a good restaurant (I forgot what it was!) Taking us a good seafood, in style, with a good Galician white wine, enjoying, as Esther says, gastronomic orgasms produced by the taste buds. And everyone was happy, everyone laughed, even without knowing Yama's jokes alias Paco Sevi, to Eugenia with which, in their day to day, have to be a serious and responsible as Uncle Vincent.

But no, it was last night, the real celebration was that morning, at twelve o'clock, when the cathedral was full to bursting with happy people listening, the only cathedral in the world live. It was nice to hear the couple who celebrated the day their golden wedding, and so was listening to the demands of the pilgrims in different languages, but for me the most exciting moment of the mass and one of the most exciting of my life when he took the microphone was a man who had something important to tell.

He said that in December last year was diagnosed with cancer in both lungs. Was very serious, gave him a couple of months and his health began to deteriorate rapidly. February came and gave him extreme unction. He asked God to give him strength to do the Camino de Santiago, that he might die without fulfilling his dream.

was when, against all odds, began to recover to the surprise of doctors and a few days before me, the ninth of September, began the French way. The same day that I, the glorious day October 14, 2006 ended in Santiago, and to glory when he stood before the microphone. He also told us that we were not aware of the strength that we all get in the way as pilgrims, who had helped him very much and we followed so. I cried, and all the cathedral applauded as ever, was incredible.

Then came the farewell, the source of the horses gave us all a big hug and grief flooded us, especially seeing Yama mourn, because we knew that her tears were of impotence to leave as he wanted. I went first, I do not like goodbyes.

The Fisterra - Muxía is the only one with the cathedral of Santiago as output rather than as a goal, and although this information may seem anecdotal (it seemed to me), not for anything. Why let your shoulders the Cathedral of Santiago is a pain, do mourn. Seeing in the distance you know you do not walk the same way.

Negreira

crossing I came to the beautiful waterfall in the middle people, and crossing forests also burned by people with no heart. Negreira not pretty, but you have the head so that nothing matters Santiago.

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Step 29 - Pedrouzo - Rio de Janeiro

can not explain with words. Arriving in Santiago you invade a mixed feeling of sorrow, joy and emotion do not know how it is that you can be sad and happy at once, but it is.

Santiago is already there, after so many miles of penance, and you can see the towers of the cathedral in the distance and then makes you skin chicken and tightens the lump in her throat and has not stopped since we saw in the way a stone reading "Santiago."

crosses a street and another with an illusion that you do not know how to express, quickly looking around corners to see if there's the cathedral. Until finally arrives ...

And see there, in all its splendor, is a cathedral made for the pilgrims, for people like you who one day decided to go several hundred miles behind now lost somewhere be the hero and go with a heavy heart in the main square of Obradoiro.

ground And I do not mourn, in fact few people have seen me and rarely do I have, but when I crossed the arch that leads to the cathedral, I dropped a crybaby.

Because then you know you're a special person in this world, you know you have to do something big, something important, that all this will not remain impassive behind your steps. And it matters little to give you a paper with your name in Latin to frame on the wall, no matter where go free, to embrace the holy and invite you to lunch or a discounted plane ticket back home. Who else want to cuddle is that girl who does not understand a word of English and met for three days, or the man who could well be your father and with whom you have laughed as much as a day of partying with your best friends or people who wear in the early stages and now returns to find outside the cathedral because the destination does not want us to see them again until today, or those kids who live in your same city and only hundreds of people in your neighborhood were going to meet them for are now friends.

Now you're all done, you're a new person, renewed, the world will never see it again with the same eyes and know that you will return one day to cross the same path that brought you here. When you have a problem you will come to Santiago Mayor Pilgrim and he was already responsible for ensuring that your steps in life follow the same path that one day you brought from a remote village who did not know existed until the place where so many have traveled and so many dreams.

now you know that yes, indeed, that 'everything is true ... and Santiago Mayor Pilgrim has a follower ...

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Step 28 - Melide - Pedrouzo

finally made a short stage, twenty miles that ran through flat green fields of cows and small forests of eucalyptus, parallel to a road. People with no sense that four small houses and a couple of animals. In fact, do not pass through any sites that had nothing important to be worth seeing, and we stopped to eat bread with sausage and ham sitting on the floor.

Pedrouzo is much larger and the hostel, as all shelters Galician disappointing. The policy of the donation is complete with all its hostels, the hostel is actually crap and people will not leave donation, and as no donation leaves no improvement in the hostel. It is horrible to get a beating after miles and can not give you a hot shower.

the absence of services may serve to make you see the way people are and not the stones, and this was demonstrated, the sadness of the last stage to start the next day became nerves, and nerves in a strange euphoria to come and finally Santiago.

We all dined together in a burger Pedrouzo. Pascualín, Gonzalo and I with Esther, Sonsoles, Oscar and Joana. At last we meet again, where he met Yama, a Japanese guy very happy and dynamic, a man from Seville who was the master of the feast and the odd new addition to the improvised group. Conversation and laughter, chained unrelated issues were that the penalty should remain in the background, to enjoy the last remaining drops of way ...

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Step 27 - Portomarín - Melide

The stage would be very hard, and indeed it was. Were forty miles under a landscape that is increasingly going becoming less attractive and mostly ran in the road passable. In fact the highlight of the stage was that we ate in Palas de Rei, a city that has little charm, but it served us well.

Turning now to La Coruña met Luis and Beatriz, father and daughter, he married a both Madrid and Murcia. They live in Murcia and the two engage in physical education. The conversation with new people made the journey much more enjoyable and ended five miles faster.

Luis is passionate about history as I El Cid, and the bill as it feels, with Tuda strength. I really appreciate their attitude, their loyalty. "What good subject if I had a good man," he said, as an example of how difficult it is to manage the good people you have beneath you.

And so we Melide, another poor shelter, this time without hot water. It seems incredible that these things happen in the XXI century. I can pass by poor facilities, a site with no services, including bad food or similar situations that do not depend on the administration of the hostel directly but why had not even seal or hospitable and, regrettably, was the first time in a month I have left a shelter while a penny of donation, as well as pretty pissed ...

All that was forgotten after the bar Ezekiel Melide famous site where we ate a delicious octopus until we were fed up by four dollars. We were with a foreign boys, with Bea and Luis, and that was one of the facts of the road that marked the experience, rather confirmed all these days of reflection. For four times, to pour wine into my glass and then drink a little, appeared on the surface of a perfect fluid cross enclosed in a circle, we even saw how it was gradually forming. A Louis was put goose bumps and even called his wife to tell, everyone freaked, including me, of course.

Throughout my life, especially from about seven years ago, has accompanied me good luck. That feeling might have been horribly wonderful place if it had not been some minor detail. My mother says I have the star and other people that I'm full of good energy. I've always thought that I have protection, that "someone" (or "something") always with me, because I never feel alone. Maybe it's a manifestation of that ...

Everything is true.

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Step 26 - Sarria - Portomarín

Las ganas de llegar a Santiago iban aumentando de forma exponencial según nos íbamos acercando. Parecía que era ayer cuando había empezado la aventura y había pasado casi un mes. Veía a mis compañeros quejándose de los dolores que en su día tuve como ellos y que ya había superado completamente. Mi cuerpo se acostumbró perfectamente al camino y los kilómetros pasaban livianos. El tiempo en el camino pasa deprisa...

Galicia a esas alturas era una costumbre visual, seguía siendo green and beautiful as when we were in El Cebreiro, but the eye was already accustomed to the scenery and people were very bland, without any charm. In fact the people are used to summarize in a couple of stone houses that smell awful and not even offer something to the traveler. The charm of Galicia is merely in its landscape.

stage quietly mused on tunnels of very friendly, with a little rain at times very specific only to scare. We reached the end of the stage to Portomarín, and we had a menu in one of the inns that are in the main street of the church. It is worth spending the night in big cities like Portomarín because you feel like being in a place much warmer than small towns, is in Galicia.

Portomarín is nice, its stairs to the entrance and the bridge over the river is very picturesque, and see the ancient city hovering over the river flooded, and the low bridge at a lower bridge Again it is impressive. Above all think that there, where it now covers the water, some people live. We were fortunate to see many walls and rest, because the river was quite low, and it is amazing.

This brings the austere hostel is very neglected and was not hospitable at first. The truth is that although run by donation, could impose a price even if low, to improve the poor facilities.

The church is beautiful, the two rosettes are precious and deserve the truth is quite worth seeing inside. A beggar Gonzar warned us that the hostel was closed for works, and that saved us of being stranded and having to make more than eight miles.

was the same beggar with whom we talked over dinner, who confessed that he lived on the road. Cadiz and was dedicated in the church asking for food and sleep in shelters. I really stunning that people may be living in and on the road ...

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Step 25 - Sarria - Samos - Sarria

breakfast at the inn or covers some toast and it was the temporary farewell. I retreated my steps along the road until you reach the monastery of Samos, where there was spent the previous day as a stage alternative, and there in a couple of hours, I met and Gonzalo Pascualín. It was great to meet with them again, because three weeks ago and saw them not because the road would be a joy with them, and I knew it.

Lowering the road to Samos is very ugly, but we made it back for an alternate route connecting Samos with the official route. It was horrible, but a priori avoid the stretch of road section did something like an extra dozen miles, but amid the laughter and excitement to be back together we passed quickly over time. Of course, the route and stage were very nice, although the absence of people with a service made it pretty tough. Almost from Samos was running the route for a road between closed forests clothed us all time.

the end we went back to sleep in the same room at the hostel, and Tita treated us as always, staying with a very good impression of the hostel Sarria and coats of arms.

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Step 24 - Fonfría - Sarria

No breakfast at the hostel, in fact became very Sencillito stage and the descent was not as hard as others. Breakfast at the inn Betularia of Biduedo and not stop until you get to Fuel, the only people offering a service Galician barrage of ghost towns that fell upon us. The truth is that we ate well, Franco's house for 9 €.

owner Frank House is one of those people the way that fills you have something you do not know what is, but you know you can learn from them. He looked relaxed person, without addressing their concerns that pilgrims and leaving a good impression. The most shocking thing he told us a long conversation we had with him was a tip given to us, told us that our time and will I plan life, fractions, and we never asustásemos failures, but we learned. "If you plan your time to do something in one part of the day, and you can do it in less time, do not put more things in that time, the better love it."

We arrived at the hostel at a time, with the force that gave us the wine. The loads of hostels that are in Sarria, we decided to go to Los Blasones, Tita's shelter, which is a lovely woman and served us very well. We got five (Esther, Joana, Sonsoles, Oscar and me) in a cozy room of three berths where we sleep. The bathrooms were very nice, very caring, washer and dryer, and a beautiful facility in a restored house. Everything would be so nice if it was not to get on the top of the bunk bed the ground lost under my bed, my eyes fell on the bottom bunk, which was the poor Sonsoles. Because she got away as fast and I managed to stay in balance on top to keep from falling on it, everything was a shock. Tita asked us after many apologies, and told us that we do not preocupásemos by the litter. We dined at the bar next door, a combination plate with a delicious local wine. The woman refused to bring home to Joan, "If you're going to mix with a wine I bring home corrientito, the house no. "

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