Pastor Zachary Tims 2010

Concluyendo ...

Here I have told my experience for nearly a thousand kilometers in which crossed the entire northern peninsula from end to end. It was one of the best things I've done in my life, and an experience I will never forget. It has been a change, an evolution. The person who came from Saint Jean Pied de Port on 16 September 2006 is not the same as that reached Finisterre almost a month later. It's something I recommend and always recommend to everyone, anyone can.

Everything is true ...

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Step 32 - Olveiroa - Muxía - Finisterra

I faced the stage, under normal conditions, is the longest and hardest of the whole way. I was only a day before returning home and was a stone's throw from Finisterre, and also a stone's throw from Muxía, but not both. So I decided to try it out very early, reaching Muxía and then from there to Finisterre to see the sunset. It was crazy, after a month I figured walking would hold my legs along, and decided to face the sixty miles of the stage.

I left at six o'clock in the hostel, shining with piles of girls Valencia. At least it was not raining that day and although it took me locate one of the arrows, I could go forward until a bar that is at the fork to Muxía and Finisterre. There I told the waitress that a beam had fallen the day before the storm, leaving no phone and no electricity to several villages. Perhaps exaggerating, but Marian could be that the day before, when I convinced her to stay with them in Olveiroa, saved my life.

continued to Muxía, the road was beautiful, the air cool with both eucalyptus and my rhythm alternated between five to six minutes per mile. I do not care about the steep climbs or the cobblestones, I had fact-road legs. And a little before reaching Muxía could see the sea, at last, since I saw him a month ago on the other side of the peninsula, had crossed the whole to reach the other side.

Muxía is very nice, in fact I was angry not to have more time to being able to see better, but some day I will make a visit to these villages in this part of Galicia.

Muxía

The best was how well they treated me in the hall, I began my junior stamp and marked where he was Muxía on the map that comes in the back of my credential, "if I do not care" I asked the man. "Everyone stands up for what is theirs," I said with a smile, and then it exploded with a history of the importance of Muxía on the pilgrimage route.

the boat The Virgin appeared to the apostle here, and was canonized, with a five-pointed crown. Beside the shrine is a set of stones that are identified with the parts of the boat of the virgin, and each has related a series of healing powers. In fact, if I had gone to another big city, might not be the Virgin of Pilar's patron saint, and would be the virgin of the boat.

He taught me a lot old photos of people pilgrimage to Muxía, and other historical references. He said there was a time when many people made a pilgrimage to Muxía, but seeing the church that lost control from Santiago, tried to extinguish the road and called it a pagan path.

I gave my muxiana and a map to Finisterre, explaining well all things I would find along the way, especially a river that had to go through, advising me to make a detour of four miles more.

half an hour I was there, I went to one and a half, ate and I started the route path Fisterra. More forests, more miles I could go through almost flying until I got to the hard yards of the road. I'd already come across a group of pilgrims traveling in the opposite direction to mine (from Finisterre to Muxía) that I had been warned that he could not cross the river, especially after the storm the day before had grown up and came with a very current strong, but a South American girl told me she had done it, leaning with his stick and told me that the water reached her waist. I thought that if she had succeeded, I might to be taller than her. The crossing was a rectangular blocks of stone about eighteen inches high, reaching the river to overcome in about two feet or so. I placed the fanny pack with everything he had of value on top of the pack. I hung up the boots mismatch and the backpack. I dismounted and the pants rolled up.

Already the first stone was crooked, and it cost me to pass. The following getting worse, plunge the stick into the soil of the river until I felt stable and I slid all my strength to the next stone. I remember in particular three stones, plants, in which I had a fatal and thought about turning around, but idea of \u200b\u200bdoing four miles gave me encouragement to keep the river crossing.

The water was very close to the waist, and a couple of times I almost lost my balance, but eventually I succeeded. Shame to have gone alone and not have immortalized that moment.

The rest of the stage, but rainy, it was short, and even got to spend a couple of miles I had to go back. I could not see the sunset because the sky was cloudy, but I got my finisterrana and met Monica, hospitable hostel. I looked for a taxi to go to sleep and dine Corcubión the hostel and so see Marian and Marina, but it was impossible, were not at that time, so I finally ended up having dinner with Monica in a bar rations are close to the lodge. Tortilla, octopus and Padrón peppers, all delicious, but the best was undoubtedly the conversation.

So I do not regret anything to have come from Muxía Fisterra, because Monica told me the other side of the story. Finisterre is the historical view of the known world to the land where the Romans two thousand years ago saw suicide each day in the sun and shocked because maybe the next day did not appear. Could be effectively Muxía been a weekend pilgrimage route, but that did not matter, really Finisterre is not even the farthest point of the peninsula, so it is a strong tradition of centuries of history that purify those who travel there. It is a tradition rather than a path imposed by the church. In a way, one could say that the religious path is going to Muxía to see the virgin, and "pagan" is one that will purify Finisterre.

was a most enjoyable conversation, and she told me, before being hospitable, was also a pilgrim, and made years ago the French way, but for the French side. I said is also clearly marked that people are very friendly when he sees you put effort into learning the language (in fact the French that she knew to talk to the French pilgrims was that) and that is a bit more expensive than the party in Spain but really worth it deserves because it is precious, and that the shelters are a pretty pass. There, in the "end times", when he had reached the end of the road, without realizing it, Monica had brought me back to the beginning.

Next time, from Le Puy, or from Paris! Who knows, that Santiago Mayor Pilgrim guide my steps. Everything is true ...

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Step 31 - Negreira - Olveiroa

My intention was to reach Muxía, but then it was not possible and I stayed in Olveiroa. That's why I left the hostel at seven o'clock.

I used the flashlight to cross the lush forests and labyrinth has Negreira to its output, and reaching the exit of one of them I ran out of batteries. For a moment I was lost and would have to stand still in the middle of a forest, raining for an hour until dawn. But no, Santiago took pity on me and a minute later, after a few steps in the dark, I saw a light in the distance and gave a road, which could go smoothly.

So I arrived in record time Olveiroa the hostel, and go grab a sandwich to gain time, I was surprised by a storm, I had to stay there.

At the bottom was the right decision, first because I met two lovely girls Valencia, Marian and Marina, which enjoyed the evening, and second because I ate some lentils delicious rice in the hostel. These girls started the road in Santiago, and only did the extension to Finisterre. I thought the way to Finisterre was not going to be more than a couple of boring days walking alone without knowing anyone, but I was wrong. In fact we spent most of the night and all afternoon playing cards and chatting in the bar, thanks to Marina gave me some batteries for my flashlight I could leave early the next day and make good all day.

In fact the road from Santiago was different, it was as if the pilgrimage was over already, that was a tip and start my new life. I was a pilgrim half and enjoyed more with the idea of \u200b\u200bgetting to sea the sights I saw. I did not expect to meet people as I knew, and these girls were a gift, Marina is a very nice girl, a physiotherapist and she looks nice. And Marian is a nurse, so I concluded that I talked to her a currant cream, of those people who fill their free time with more things and ends up by being busy all day. Besides having very beautiful eyes, and deep, I noticed ...

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Step 30 - Rio de Janeiro - Negreira

That morning we all got together to see the Pilgrim Mass at the cathedral. Personally, I do not believe in the church, but it has nothing to do. Even for a non-believer or an atheist, is an exciting time. It's more a celebration than ever.

Last night, after all the euphoria, we were in a good restaurant (I forgot what it was!) Taking us a good seafood, in style, with a good Galician white wine, enjoying, as Esther says, gastronomic orgasms produced by the taste buds. And everyone was happy, everyone laughed, even without knowing Yama's jokes alias Paco Sevi, to Eugenia with which, in their day to day, have to be a serious and responsible as Uncle Vincent.

But no, it was last night, the real celebration was that morning, at twelve o'clock, when the cathedral was full to bursting with happy people listening, the only cathedral in the world live. It was nice to hear the couple who celebrated the day their golden wedding, and so was listening to the demands of the pilgrims in different languages, but for me the most exciting moment of the mass and one of the most exciting of my life when he took the microphone was a man who had something important to tell.

He said that in December last year was diagnosed with cancer in both lungs. Was very serious, gave him a couple of months and his health began to deteriorate rapidly. February came and gave him extreme unction. He asked God to give him strength to do the Camino de Santiago, that he might die without fulfilling his dream.

was when, against all odds, began to recover to the surprise of doctors and a few days before me, the ninth of September, began the French way. The same day that I, the glorious day October 14, 2006 ended in Santiago, and to glory when he stood before the microphone. He also told us that we were not aware of the strength that we all get in the way as pilgrims, who had helped him very much and we followed so. I cried, and all the cathedral applauded as ever, was incredible.

Then came the farewell, the source of the horses gave us all a big hug and grief flooded us, especially seeing Yama mourn, because we knew that her tears were of impotence to leave as he wanted. I went first, I do not like goodbyes.

The Fisterra - Muxía is the only one with the cathedral of Santiago as output rather than as a goal, and although this information may seem anecdotal (it seemed to me), not for anything. Why let your shoulders the Cathedral of Santiago is a pain, do mourn. Seeing in the distance you know you do not walk the same way.

Negreira

crossing I came to the beautiful waterfall in the middle people, and crossing forests also burned by people with no heart. Negreira not pretty, but you have the head so that nothing matters Santiago.

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Step 29 - Pedrouzo - Rio de Janeiro

can not explain with words. Arriving in Santiago you invade a mixed feeling of sorrow, joy and emotion do not know how it is that you can be sad and happy at once, but it is.

Santiago is already there, after so many miles of penance, and you can see the towers of the cathedral in the distance and then makes you skin chicken and tightens the lump in her throat and has not stopped since we saw in the way a stone reading "Santiago."

crosses a street and another with an illusion that you do not know how to express, quickly looking around corners to see if there's the cathedral. Until finally arrives ...

And see there, in all its splendor, is a cathedral made for the pilgrims, for people like you who one day decided to go several hundred miles behind now lost somewhere be the hero and go with a heavy heart in the main square of Obradoiro.

ground And I do not mourn, in fact few people have seen me and rarely do I have, but when I crossed the arch that leads to the cathedral, I dropped a crybaby.

Because then you know you're a special person in this world, you know you have to do something big, something important, that all this will not remain impassive behind your steps. And it matters little to give you a paper with your name in Latin to frame on the wall, no matter where go free, to embrace the holy and invite you to lunch or a discounted plane ticket back home. Who else want to cuddle is that girl who does not understand a word of English and met for three days, or the man who could well be your father and with whom you have laughed as much as a day of partying with your best friends or people who wear in the early stages and now returns to find outside the cathedral because the destination does not want us to see them again until today, or those kids who live in your same city and only hundreds of people in your neighborhood were going to meet them for are now friends.

Now you're all done, you're a new person, renewed, the world will never see it again with the same eyes and know that you will return one day to cross the same path that brought you here. When you have a problem you will come to Santiago Mayor Pilgrim and he was already responsible for ensuring that your steps in life follow the same path that one day you brought from a remote village who did not know existed until the place where so many have traveled and so many dreams.

now you know that yes, indeed, that 'everything is true ... and Santiago Mayor Pilgrim has a follower ...

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Step 28 - Melide - Pedrouzo

finally made a short stage, twenty miles that ran through flat green fields of cows and small forests of eucalyptus, parallel to a road. People with no sense that four small houses and a couple of animals. In fact, do not pass through any sites that had nothing important to be worth seeing, and we stopped to eat bread with sausage and ham sitting on the floor.

Pedrouzo is much larger and the hostel, as all shelters Galician disappointing. The policy of the donation is complete with all its hostels, the hostel is actually crap and people will not leave donation, and as no donation leaves no improvement in the hostel. It is horrible to get a beating after miles and can not give you a hot shower.

the absence of services may serve to make you see the way people are and not the stones, and this was demonstrated, the sadness of the last stage to start the next day became nerves, and nerves in a strange euphoria to come and finally Santiago.

We all dined together in a burger Pedrouzo. Pascualín, Gonzalo and I with Esther, Sonsoles, Oscar and Joana. At last we meet again, where he met Yama, a Japanese guy very happy and dynamic, a man from Seville who was the master of the feast and the odd new addition to the improvised group. Conversation and laughter, chained unrelated issues were that the penalty should remain in the background, to enjoy the last remaining drops of way ...

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Step 27 - Portomarín - Melide

The stage would be very hard, and indeed it was. Were forty miles under a landscape that is increasingly going becoming less attractive and mostly ran in the road passable. In fact the highlight of the stage was that we ate in Palas de Rei, a city that has little charm, but it served us well.

Turning now to La Coruña met Luis and Beatriz, father and daughter, he married a both Madrid and Murcia. They live in Murcia and the two engage in physical education. The conversation with new people made the journey much more enjoyable and ended five miles faster.

Luis is passionate about history as I El Cid, and the bill as it feels, with Tuda strength. I really appreciate their attitude, their loyalty. "What good subject if I had a good man," he said, as an example of how difficult it is to manage the good people you have beneath you.

And so we Melide, another poor shelter, this time without hot water. It seems incredible that these things happen in the XXI century. I can pass by poor facilities, a site with no services, including bad food or similar situations that do not depend on the administration of the hostel directly but why had not even seal or hospitable and, regrettably, was the first time in a month I have left a shelter while a penny of donation, as well as pretty pissed ...

All that was forgotten after the bar Ezekiel Melide famous site where we ate a delicious octopus until we were fed up by four dollars. We were with a foreign boys, with Bea and Luis, and that was one of the facts of the road that marked the experience, rather confirmed all these days of reflection. For four times, to pour wine into my glass and then drink a little, appeared on the surface of a perfect fluid cross enclosed in a circle, we even saw how it was gradually forming. A Louis was put goose bumps and even called his wife to tell, everyone freaked, including me, of course.

Throughout my life, especially from about seven years ago, has accompanied me good luck. That feeling might have been horribly wonderful place if it had not been some minor detail. My mother says I have the star and other people that I'm full of good energy. I've always thought that I have protection, that "someone" (or "something") always with me, because I never feel alone. Maybe it's a manifestation of that ...

Everything is true.

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Step 26 - Sarria - Portomarín

Las ganas de llegar a Santiago iban aumentando de forma exponencial según nos íbamos acercando. Parecía que era ayer cuando había empezado la aventura y había pasado casi un mes. Veía a mis compañeros quejándose de los dolores que en su día tuve como ellos y que ya había superado completamente. Mi cuerpo se acostumbró perfectamente al camino y los kilómetros pasaban livianos. El tiempo en el camino pasa deprisa...

Galicia a esas alturas era una costumbre visual, seguía siendo green and beautiful as when we were in El Cebreiro, but the eye was already accustomed to the scenery and people were very bland, without any charm. In fact the people are used to summarize in a couple of stone houses that smell awful and not even offer something to the traveler. The charm of Galicia is merely in its landscape.

stage quietly mused on tunnels of very friendly, with a little rain at times very specific only to scare. We reached the end of the stage to Portomarín, and we had a menu in one of the inns that are in the main street of the church. It is worth spending the night in big cities like Portomarín because you feel like being in a place much warmer than small towns, is in Galicia.

Portomarín is nice, its stairs to the entrance and the bridge over the river is very picturesque, and see the ancient city hovering over the river flooded, and the low bridge at a lower bridge Again it is impressive. Above all think that there, where it now covers the water, some people live. We were fortunate to see many walls and rest, because the river was quite low, and it is amazing.

This brings the austere hostel is very neglected and was not hospitable at first. The truth is that although run by donation, could impose a price even if low, to improve the poor facilities.

The church is beautiful, the two rosettes are precious and deserve the truth is quite worth seeing inside. A beggar Gonzar warned us that the hostel was closed for works, and that saved us of being stranded and having to make more than eight miles.

was the same beggar with whom we talked over dinner, who confessed that he lived on the road. Cadiz and was dedicated in the church asking for food and sleep in shelters. I really stunning that people may be living in and on the road ...

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Step 25 - Sarria - Samos - Sarria

breakfast at the inn or covers some toast and it was the temporary farewell. I retreated my steps along the road until you reach the monastery of Samos, where there was spent the previous day as a stage alternative, and there in a couple of hours, I met and Gonzalo Pascualín. It was great to meet with them again, because three weeks ago and saw them not because the road would be a joy with them, and I knew it.

Lowering the road to Samos is very ugly, but we made it back for an alternate route connecting Samos with the official route. It was horrible, but a priori avoid the stretch of road section did something like an extra dozen miles, but amid the laughter and excitement to be back together we passed quickly over time. Of course, the route and stage were very nice, although the absence of people with a service made it pretty tough. Almost from Samos was running the route for a road between closed forests clothed us all time.

the end we went back to sleep in the same room at the hostel, and Tita treated us as always, staying with a very good impression of the hostel Sarria and coats of arms.

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